I'm back using the iPad for the moment, but far from sure whether I can post many photographs using the Wi-Fi on the boat. It's a bit unreliable, it keeps coming and going. I might be reduced to posting text only, and adding in photos one at a time.
We awoke this morning to light rain, much to our chagrin. However, it wasn't cold so after breakfast we set off at a fast pace to have another look at Cologne cathedral, which was a 15 minute walk from the boat. We hadn't much time though - it was 9.30 when we left and we were honour bound to be back no later than 10.45, so the boat could sail by 11 at the latest.
I did manage some better photos of the outside of the cathedral, the morning light being better. The photographs are still somewhat spoiled by the scaffolding and the huge digital screens in the piazza outside, so this photo was taken from the river as we sailed away.
Part of Cologne cathedral dates back to 870, apparently, but this isn't the bit you see. The current gothic cathedral was begun in 1248, but it stalled during the religious wars and wasn't finished until 1880, though it was built then to the original plans. My guide book calls it the most ambitious building project of the thirteenth century north of France. It's certainly imposing inside, the 140 foot high ceiling reminding you of your place in the vast scheme of things. There's lots of stained glass too, some of it very old.
The first cathedral housed a famous relic, the bones of the three Magi, acquired in 1164. This relic attracted so many pilgrims that the Cathedral Chapter decided to build a new cathedral. Unfortunately, the part of the cathedral which housed these relics was closed off, so we weren't able to see it, along with something else I had hoped to see, an old crucifix dated to 976.
I did manage to see this painting, painted around 1440, in the Chapel of the Virgin.
It's called The Patron Saints of Cologne and is one of the most famous paintings of the School of Cologne. It shows the Virgin surrounded by the saints - though there was nothing to explain exactly who the saints were, and it wasn't possible close enough to see anything in detail.
The interior of the cathedral was probably entirely painted. There are just a few paintings left, which gives you an impression of how it must have looked.
Just before 11, we set off down river towards Linz. This part of the Rhine flows through flatter lands, with forests and agricultural land on one side and smart houses on the other.
The first interesting town we passed was Konigswinter, a small resort town at the foot of the romantic Drachenfels mountain. The mountain is crowned by the evocative ruins of a castle built in the early 12th century by the archbishop of Cologne. A cave in the hill is said to have sheltered the dragon which was slain by the hero Siegfried.
After that, we passed Remagen, better known for its bridge, built during World War I and captured in World War II by the Americans after two failed attempts to demolish it. It was the subject of a popular film.
The bridge collapsed a few days after its capture, and has never been re-built. We saw the remaining towers of the bridge as we sailed past.
We moored at the small town of Linz, an attractive town because of the large numbers of old half-timbered buildings.
There are two of the old town gates, one with the date 1748 on it, and both with a portcullis.
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