We set off in the bus this morning for the resort of Cefalù, a small town about 70 km from Palermo. It has a long beach and a most dramatic setting under the crags of a huge rock called La Rocca.
Our driver dropped us off near the lighthouse and we walked into town; the streets are too narrow for a bus. We had gone to see the mosaics in the Cathedral, which was built by Roger II in 1130. One of the stories is that he built it in gratitude after being almost shipwrecked in a storm and finding refuge on the beach, but my guide book disputes this.
The church is clearly Norman, and of the type which could also be a fortress, with heavy blank walls pierced only with cross loops - the cross-shaped arrow slits. Inside, the mosaics decorate the apse. I am afraid this is the best overall view I could manage - the church is very dark inside, and my photos were no better with a flash.
The mosaics were completed in 1148, and are Byzantine in appearance, with Christ Pantocrator dominating the central apse; underneath is the Madonna, flanked by angels, then the twelve apostles, in 2 rows. Only the apse is decorated. Roger died when the decorations had got that far, and his son William preferred to concentrate on other churches.
There appear to have been some Baroque additions to the church, but thankfully, most of these seem to have been removed.
The town is full of narrow streets and small alleys, and it is hard to imagine what it must be like to drive through them. It's certainly quite difficult as a pedestrian constantly having to leap into shop doorways to avoid cars and the ubiquitous Vespas.
We walked down the narrow streets to look at an oil store from the middle ages
Further down the hill is a lavatorio or wash house from Saracen times, with cold water from a spring flowing into the square wash basins, and flowing out to the sea.
Just below the lavatorio, there is this beautiful view of the sea and the beach.
Below this, at Fishermen's corner, we found a tangle of nets overlooking the curve of the beach.
We went to a ceramic shop, where we watched the potter demonstrating how to throw a vase, and we bought a serving dish.
Quite a lot of the ceramics we have seen are in quite garish colours or designs, but this was more restrained.
Paul and I wandered through the crowded street looking for something to eat that wasn't enormous. This is one of the tiny alleys; in this one, you are in no danger from cars, but the Vespas can still manage to bump down them!
Eventually, we found a café shaded by a vine where they had snacks. I had something I can't spell - or pronounce - but it was a triangular slice of a big round flat loaf, filled with a sauce of tomato, cheese and aubergines, and was very nice. We allowed ourselves an ice-cream as well - banana in my case. Then we made our way slowly back to the bus, to set off for Tyndaris.
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